The fashion industry’s massive waste issue is pushing governments, especially in Europe, towards ambitious recycling goals.

The challenge lies in the fact that textile recycling is a highly intricate task and technical solutions are still nascent.

NGOs caution that the real issue is overproduction, with tech innovations possibly serving as mere cover for brands to continue churning out billions of new garments.

However, the pressure to ramp up recycling on a large scale is mounting.

“Circular economy consultant Paul Foulkes-Arellano noted, “Brands must achieve high levels of recycling rapidly, or face hefty fines from the EU.”

AFP interviewed several experts to explore potential game-changing ideas.

Many might not succeed, but here’s a glimpse of current contenders highlighting the diverse challenges in textile recycling.

  • MycoWorks: Mushroom Leather MycoWorks grows mycelium (fungus roots) that resembles luxury leather, with early clients such as Hermes and General Motors. *link
  • Circ: Unblending Clothes Circ, based in the US, has developed a chemical solution to separate common blends like polycotton into their constituent parts. *link
  • SuperCircle: Collection and Sorting SuperCircle integrates delivery firms, warehouses, and tracking systems to streamline and reduce costs in the collection and sorting of old clothes. *link
  • Saentis Textiles: In-House Recycling Saentis Textiles has developed a patented machine that can recycle cotton with minimal damage, providing quality new textiles. *link
  • Unspun: 3D Weaving Machine Unspun claims to have invented the world’s first 3D weaving machine, capable of creating custom-sized jeans in under 10 minutes. *link
  • Cetia: Preparing Old Clothes France-based Cetia specializes in preparing used clothes for recycling, utilizing AI and laser technology to efficiently process items. *link