From the fashion that seeks to empower women in the search for a respectful wardrobe for people and the environment, London Fashion Week set trends during five days of fashion shows that ended Tuesday.

Between femininity and feminism

Seeking a balance “between the femininity of the past and feminism of today,” South Korean designer Yoon Choon Ho presented on Tuesday a spring-summer 2020 collection inspired by the late-19th-century American sniper Annie Oakley. Like her, YCH women wear leather visor hats or cowgirl hats with fringed vests and tops with vintage or bustier effect. But far from being tight and limiting, the skirts are pleated to allow movement and oversize jackets are worn over long-sleeved shirts.

In high-waisted pants and overlapping trench coats, dark colors like chocolate contrast with fluorescent green or pale blue. And everything is combined with three-piece bags that mimic a rifle sheath. Irish Sharon Wauchob opted for creations that can be carried by men and women. “I’ve always liked the androgynous image,” he confessed after his weekend parade, where he presented large, silky pants and feathered dresses. Also the stylist duo Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman made a bold mix of genres, drawing inspiration from the films “Farinelli” by Gérard Corbiau and “Amadeus” by Milos Forman, as well as the character of the French queen Maria Antoinette. Playing with the contrasts, they mixed lace and heavy metal shirts and combined denim with delicate fabrics such as satin and tulle. “We explore the idea of ​​pansexuality, the attraction for a person whatever their gender identity,” they explained.

Sustainable ethical fashion

Driven by the “Positive Fashion” initiative launched by the London fashion week, and in keeping with the environmental movement Extinction Rebellion that organized several protests coinciding with the parades, more and more designers integrate into their garments the concern for the environment and ethics productive Guatemalan stylists Gabriela Luna and Corina del Pinal, installed in London with their Luna Del Pinal brand, seek to make a “slow and responsible fashion” creative and sustainable. Fascinated by ancient weaving techniques, they turn to indigenous artisans to create their wide and comfortable designs with a certain oriental style. Other young designers seek to give a second life to clothes or accessories. The Romanian Ancuta Sarca creates hybrid shoes, a mix of sports shoes and heels recovered in used clothing stores. And Mariah Esa, recently graduated, uses discarded garment labels to make her creations: up to 2,000 labels to make a coat.

Graduate Fashion Week GFW 2019 – Mariah Esa

Volume and geometry

Among the essential styles of the spring-summer 2020 season presented in London Fashion Week are the voluminous but ethereal creations of the British Molly Goddard and the geometric and mobile dresses of the Serbian Roksanda, which leaves in her creations a clear sample of her training as an architect. In her energetic designs, which seem designed to raise morale, the Serbian creator stands out for her choice of colors. Combinations of pink and tangerine that in the parade on Monday contrasted with the gray sky of London. Rising star of British fashion, Goddard presented the weekend steamy creations reminiscent of his famous pink tulle dress, which ran rivers of ink after being taken by Villanelle, an eccentric hitman, in the television series “Killing Eve. “

Their bulky dresses and skirts, in chicken yellow or coral red, are worn with leather boots without heel. After the parade, the English recognized not having had a specific theme in mind but rather interested in “individual styles.” “I looked at the things I’ve done in the last five years, the ones I like the most, and I did them again, but bigger and better.”