Is the influence of the street on the hype losing ground? Are women’s suits the future of men’s suits? Finally, is dandyism, inherited from the 19th century, becoming trendy again? So many questions we asked ourselves when we left the presentations of the fall winter 2023-2024 men’s collections.

Workwear and streetwear influences are giving way. It seems that the looks of the workers or the wesh wesh of the cities no longer make the privileged world of fashion dream too much. The value of work has lead in the wing. “With a coat at 800 euros public price, we want to be chic, dressy and not to think that we could find it in a streetwear wardrobe”, summarizes Naomi Gunther, interviewed at the Tranoï Men show.

The fall-winter 2023/2024 men‘s collections therefore rediscover the taste for suits, with more or less revisited looks (otherwise it would not be fashionable), depending on whether your name is De Fursac, Dunhill or KidSuper for Louis Vuitton. This new aesthetic is inspired by the know-how of Savile Row tailors, as evidenced by the collection of Grace Wales Bonner who worked with Anderson and Sheppard, one of the world’s leading houses of Bespoke Tailoring.

Tailoring know-how regains value with men

“JW Anderson had set the tone in Milan by parading models carrying rolls of fabric in order to blur the stages of creation and return to the essential”, underlines the magazine Mad. In the process, renowned brands (Prada, Givenchy, to name but a few) opened their fall-winter 2023/2024 parade with costumes, imposing them, in fact, as a must have. But rather than using the word “costume”, it would perhaps be appropriate to say “tailor”, a term usually reserved for the female gender but which finds its full meaning here, given the evolution of cuts , materials and other artifices to renew the so-called “classic three sad pieces”.

The previous season, we titled on the feminization of the male wardrobe , asking ourselves about the evolution of his wardrobe (no pun intended). Indeed, several brands, avant-garde but not only, offered, for the summer of 2023, skirts, dresses, jewelry, heels, sequins for men. Well, the fall-winter 2023/2024 season shows us that the logical next step is not so much men dressed as women, but gentlemen in favor of genderfluid tailoring. Understand: a wardrobe that could be worn by men as well as women.

Jacket/pants worn over a crop top (Sankuanz), shirt/tie under a transverse drape (Louis Gabriel Nouchi) or with a waistband (Dolce & Gabbana), vaporous silk chiffon shirt (Steven Passaro), skirt dressed by- over pants as well at Dior, Givenchy or Walter Van Bereindonck… And to wonder if the suit will not be the key piece of the Women’s Fashion Weeks to come?! Moreover, it should be noted that the Parisian men’s FW resolutely opens the way to mixed parades. At the start of this phenomenon, some specialists in the sector argued that it was to be more visible, in a context where female FW is overdosed. Today, men’s shows have more and more female presence.

The fall-winter 2023/2024 men’s collections are dedicated to fluid (gender) tailoring

This diversity is clearly assumed by Alexandre Matuissi, founder and artistic director of the Ami brand. “Prelude, Ami’s fall-winter 23 collection for men and women, is a new step towards defining an ever more modern and lively wardrobe,” the press release said. A collection that perfectly represents the Parisian or the Parisienne, the man or the woman. This season, Ami’s winter is getting lighter: the materials, colors and cuts are all very soft, fluid – I would even say almost romantic”. The already iconic piece? A long unisex coat, immaculate, which hugs the lines of the body without structuring them. For sure, a must for next winter, for men and women ali

Is the influence of the street on the hype losing ground? Are women’s suits the future of men’s suits? Finally, is dandyism, inherited from the 19th century, becoming trendy again? So many questions we asked ourselves when we left the presentations of the fall winter 2023-2024 men’s collections.

Workwear and streetwear influences are giving way. It seems that the looks of the workers or the wesh wesh of the cities no longer make the privileged world of fashion dream too much. The value of work has lead in the wing. “With a coat at 800 euros public price, we want to be chic, dressy and not to think that we could find it in a streetwear wardrobe”, summarizes Naomi Gunther, interviewed at the Tranoï Men show.

The fall-winter 2023/2024 men’s collections therefore rediscover the taste for suits, with more or less revisited looks (otherwise it would not be fashionable), depending on whether your name is De Fursac, Dunhill or KidSuper for Louis Vuitton. This new aesthetic is inspired by the know-how of Savile Row tailors, as evidenced by the collection of Grace Wales Bonner who worked with Anderson and Sheppard, one of the world’s leading houses of Bespoke Tailoring.

Modern Lazy Smocking: the artifices of modern dandyism

The term “Modern Lazy Smocking” comes to us from a young London designer, Luke Derrick, present on the London Show Rooms, during Paris Fashion Week January 2023. Luke Derrick pushes the limits of fashion luxury masculine dress with smooth pieces, cut to perfection, “clothing for men who want to get away with it” titles The Face magazine.

He revisits the aesthetic of the dandy, a term that had had its day under the influence of street wear, but which finds, in this fall winter 2023 2024 season, all its panache. Starting with the presentation of Anthony Vaccarello who revives, around male necks, the famous lavallière of his predecessor Yves Saint Laurent, originally designed for women.

Among the budding talents, we must mention the Spanish designer, Arturo Obegero, present in the Sphere showroom of the Fédération de la Couture et de la Mode. His style could seem old-fashioned as long as US rap dominated the catwalks, but next winter proves his “homme fatal” right, a baseline borrowed from the lexicon of the femme fatale: “I wanted to update this sexist term that dates back years forty, at the time of Hollywood film noir”. There is post Babylon in the air…

This cult of his person could seem superficial, as is the fashion for most people who are not, if it did not come to tickle our relationship to intimacy. As such, let us quote the Chinese creator Sean Suen who moves away, according to the press release from “the confusion and agitation of life in a city of modern culture to explore, through the vast mountains of Daliang (China) the culture of the Yi people”, an ethnic community steeped in animism and shamanism. Sean Suen hopes “that the intrinsic quality of self-awareness will be thought about through the prism of an ancient Eastern culture”. Fashion prescriptions are deeper than it seems.