Before street style, there was Vexed Generation.

It was the mid-90’s in the streets of London, a time where censorship was enforced and a bevy of intrusive laws, all stringing from the 1994 crime bill, infringed upon a once liberated scene. In an age where digital channels remained hushed, a certain design duo decided to channel their frustrations into a telling uniform.

Vexed Generation was born as a passion project between Adam Thorpe and Joe Hunter. The subversive collection consisted of pieces equipped with agendas that protected and enforced the message of the people. Most notable was the Vexed Parka, a garment with blast-proof ballistic nylon sourced through the Ministry of Defense. With padding on the head, kidneys, and nether regions, the statement piece provided protective cushions against batons from riot police.


In response to an increase in public CCTV’s, the duo also released an identity-concealing hooded fleece projecting both intimidation and anonymity.

The rather literal designs spoke loudly during a time when platforms were scarce. While extremely utilitarian, they also evoked an avant-garde aesthetic that pleased both artists and anarchists.

During a similar time of unrest, the cult brand was reawakened by Opening Ceremony’s “Fashion Porn” vintage pop-up in late July. Standing alongside Raf Simons and Helmut Lang, the statement pieces commanded the room as a capsule collection amongst the greats, but also as a story with more to tell.

Heeding the call, the brand will be back for AW18. Details are few and far between, but the design duo will have much inspiration for the next Vexed Generation.

Article by: Samantha Lockhart from NASENSE